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Damrak – The Red Carpet into Amsterdam
Damrak is the main street that leads from Central Station to Dam square — the center of Amsterdam.
It is sometimes referred to as the ‘Red Carpet’ into Amsterdam — a somewhat ambitious term, perhaps.
From its Sex Museum to the prestigious Bijenkorf warehouse, and from its gaudy street furniture (fortunately slated to be replaced) to the interesting architecture along the way, Damrak offers a preview of what Amsterdam has to offer.
Damrak, with Amsterdam Central Station in the background
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The name of the street refers to the dam in the river Amstel (hence, Amsterdam) on the site of what eventually became Dam square.
Rak is an old Dutch term for a straight canal or river. Until 1672, when most of it was filled, Damrak was Amsterdam’s busiest canal. Ships were docked along its quays — all the way up to Dam square — to unload, and take on board, goods from all over the world.
At the time, Damrak was the gateway to the Zuiderzee (South Sea), and from there to the North Sea.
A Monument to Stubborn Determination
At the Corner of Damrak and Prins Hendrikkade, straight across from Central Station’s main entrance stands the monumental Victoria Hotel, built in typical 19th century neostyle. But what catches the eye before you cross the street is that just to right of the hotel’s main entrance, two tiny 17th century houses appear to defy the imposing building.
Indeed, the hotel was built around them, due to the fact that the owners weren’t interested in selling out to the developer — even though they had been offered a huge sum of money.
Gaudy
While Damrak is sometimes said to be a ‘red carpet’ leading visitors into the city, decades of mismanagement has resulted in the presence of much gaudiness. There is an overabundance of loud souvenir stores, so-so bars, money changers best avoided. [Tips on where to exchange your currency in Amsterdam]
In recent years the city rulers have attempted, with mixed results, to address the plethora of garish advertising signs. The city has also tried to chart exactly who owns the real estate, much of which is said to belong to various criminal organizations.
Damrak, the street that leads from Amsterdam Central Station to Dam square
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Illegal hostels — some with dozens of floor-only sleeping places in crowded rooms with little or no regard for safety — are closed, and, more recently, squatters have been removed.
At other times the city’s leaders are part of the problem. Witness, for instance, the bizarre streets lights which appeared in 1991 as part of a policy that insisted some street furniture should be designed as ‘expressions of applied art.’ Most Amsterdammers, if asked, would more or less kindly inform those responsible what they can do with their artwork.
Turns out, the city can’t even give the stuff away. Damrak will soon be a open building site, as part of ongoing work on the North-South metro line. When the work is done (said to be in 2013 — but said to be so by politicians…), the street furniture won’t be back.
The city has tried to find a local borough, or another town that would be interested in taking the, er, artwork of its hands. Alas, to-date they have found no takes for the lights. Even De Efteling, a Disneylandish fairytale adventure park has turned down the cast iron furniture.
Us Amsterdammers are now waiting to see what the city’s leaders come up with next. It can’t be much worse…
Stock Exchange
Then again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. When the stock exchange building — the huge colossus at the left-hand side of the street when walking toward Dam square — was unveiled in 1903 it met with much derision.
Meant as a counterpoint to the architecture of the Central Station, the building was modern for its time. Nowadays it is considered a key work of the period, and the ‘Beurs van Berlage’ is almost universally admired.
Historic Water
Before you reach the Stock Exchange you’ll see a body of water. This is all that remains of the erstwhile harbor. Note that the backs of the houses are actually standing in the water, which would have made it easy for ships to offload their good straight into — or out off — storage.
These houses have their front door in the Warmoesstraat. Warmoes is an old Dutch name that refers to a vegetable garden where produce is grown on a small-time commercial basis.
Nowadays the water is home to some of Amsterdam’s many canal tour boat operators.
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