In Amsterdam, learn to live — and let live

AMSTERDAM, The Netherlands — It felt like I was gliding on air, hovering smoothly through the streets of Amsterdam, past the Royal Palace and over canal bridges, as the ubiquitous Heineken beer signs became a green blur.

Suddenly, I lurched forward as the gliding came to an abrupt stop.

“Prinsengracht,” said the tram conductor in a crisp, Dutch accent. A few blocks away was the Anne Frank House, one of the city’s most renowned sites.

Amsterdam is famous for a lot of things, not the least of which are its more than two dozen world-class museums. A house-sitting gig meant I had a month to tour them, try the cafes, peek at the Red Light District and, most importantly, attempt to live as if I were a local — the way I always prefer to experience new destinations, versus 8-cities-in-10-days tours.

The best bets for exploring this compact city are by foot, bicycle or tram. Bicycles far outnumber automobiles, and it’s easy to see why. Virtually every major street is lined with red, generously wide bike lanes, and motorists and pedestrians alike graciously cede to their right of way. In fact, when crossing the street, the bike lane is the first thing you’ll step onto, and it’s a good idea to make sure the coast is clear before you do.

Rather than concrete buildings stacked with layers of parked cars, you’ll see bike garages filled with bicycles used by commuters.

Windmills, tulips and wooden clogs are the images that usually spring to mind when people think of Holland. But the Dutch have gone down in history for something else: an open-armed, nonjudgmental mindset.

“Our philosophy is, ‘Who am I to judge?’ ” said Elly, a schoolteacher from Rotterdam whom I met during my stay. “We prefer to live and let live.”

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