Estimated reading time: 7 minutes
Table of contents
- When in Amsterdam you must try haring (herring)
- Herring is not raw fish
- How to eat herring
- What herring tastes like
- What makes it “New Herring” (Hollandse Nieuwe)?
- How to find a top herring stall in Amsterdam
- How much does a herring cost in Amsterdam?
- Hollandse Nieuwe: ‘New Dutch Herring’ 2023 Season
- Amsterdam Food Tours
When in Amsterdam you must try haring (herring)
Without a doubt, the Dutch street food most frowned upon by tourists, expats, and immigrants, is herring — a popular and healthy snack.
Among other things, herring lowers your bad cholesterol, and it is a good source of vitamin D. 1
But above all, people eat herring because it tastes great!
Herring in season?
The Dutch eat herring all year long. Yes, the so-called ‘New Herring’ that arrives in June (see below) is a big deal. But herring is a delicacy that is enjoyed in all seasons. Don’t skip this experience!
Herring is not raw fish
Traditionally, herring is eaten by grabbing it by the tail, throwing one’s head back, and — while gently lowering the fish — biting off tasty morsels.
This pose has caused many tourists to assume that the fish is eaten raw, but that is not the case. Herring is partially gutted on board of the fishing vessel (or sometimes upon arrival at the port). Then it is salted, and next it is frozen for a minimum of two days. This process affects the fish’s taste and tenderness.2
The fish is further cleaned and prepared at stalls (Haringkar) or fish stores — usually at the time a customer orders one. It is at its absolute best when it is prepared right then and there, which is one reason why you usually can watch your order being prepared.
How to eat herring
You’ll note that in most cities the fish is not eaten the traditional way. Rather, many people prefer to have their herring served cut in bite-sized pieces. The fish is presented on a paper tray, along with finely diced onions and some sliced pickles. A toothpick serves as a utensil.
You can also opt for herring on a white bun.
By the way, herring may taste saltier the further you travel east in the Netherlands. This hails back to the time when supplies took longer to travel from the harbors to the customers. Salted and frozen for a longer time, it came out tasting differently — and through the years customers have gotten used to their local flavors.
Speaking of which, many herring lovers eat the fish without onions and pickles.
Why onions and pickles?
Centuries ago, the further away a city was from the sea, the older the herring sold. To mask the taste of slightly-too-old herring, onions and pickles were introduced.
It’s a nice combination, but nowadays onions and pickles are not necessary. Try your herring without it for a pure taste sensation!
What herring tastes like
And the taste? Hard to describe. Suffice it to say that for most people herring is love at first bite. If you like sushi, you’ll love this delicacy.
It’s not easy to find a Dutch person who doesn’t like herring — and even harder to find one who doesn’t enjoy talking a tourist into trying one.
Hollandse Nieuwe: ‘New Dutch Herring’
Herring fishing occurs year-round, but the fat content (and thus the taste) of the fish varies with the season.
The best herring is called Hollandse nieuwe (Holland new), indicating that it has been caught between the middle of May and the end of June. Earlier than that the fish is too thin, and later it is too fat.
By law, Hollandse Nieuwe must have at least 16% fat. There are several other requirements — including the fact that the herring must have been frozen for at least 2 days in order to kill possible parasites.
Herring is a treat any time, but Hollandse Nieuwe ensures that the fish is at its tastiest.
On the last Saturday in May, herring boats sail out from the harbors of Scheveningen and IJmuiden to start the hunt for the year’s new herring catch. The first vessel to return with the much-praised Hollandse Nieuwe wins this prestigious contest. The first barrel of new herring is auctioned, usually fetching a handsome price.
What makes it “New Herring” (Hollandse Nieuwe)?
Herring may be sold as “Hollandse Nieuwe” if and when the herring has a fat percentage of at least 16%, and has been gutted, salted, and filleted according to traditional Dutch custom.
The fish must have been caught between the start of the season at the beginning of May and the end of August.
Herring may only be called Hollandse Nieuwe between an officially sanctioned day at the start of June (a different day each year) and the end of September. During the rest of the year, the fish is just haring (herring). Sometimes you will it advertised as maatjesharing (matjes herring), but that term has fallen in disuse.
Any fishmonger (or anyone else, for that matter) who sells herring as Hollandse Nieuwe outside of the official season can be fined €10.800 and/or be subjected to sanctions.
By the way, Hollandse Nieuwe has TSG (Traditional Specialty Guaranteed) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) certification from the European Commission 3
How to find a top herring stall in Amsterdam
Look for a fishmonger cart with plenty of customers, preferably locals. In the center of town some carts attract more tourists than locals. Usually there is a good reason for that. Mind you, if a place attracts more 4 or 5 star reviews from tourists than from locals, you may want to find another herring cart.
Also: preparing the herring — that is removing the skin, tail, and the largest bones — takes time. A busy herring stall may have a few cleaned up herrings on hand, but we prefer to see the fish being prepared upon ordering.
If in doubt, head for Stubbe’s Haring (On the bridge across Singel canal, at the start of Haarlemmerstraat), Kras Haring (Kattenburgerplein, across from the National Maritime Museum), or Vishandel Albert Cuyp (yes, the famous street market). This will set the standard by which you can evaluate other herring mongers.
How much does a herring cost in Amsterdam?
Nowadays, the price of herring can be anything from about € 3,50 to about € 4,00 — slightly more for new herring. Herring on a bun may set you back ± € 5,50.
Hollandse Nieuwe: ‘New Dutch Herring’ 2023 Season
In the Netherlands, the 2023 Hollandse Nieuwe: ‘New Dutch Herring’ season started on June 23. (That was a week later than usual. The reason is that the herring did not yet have the right fat content.)
The day before, June 22, the Nederlands Visbureau (Dutch Fish Agency) celebrated the arrival of the Hollandse Nieuwe, catch 2023.
Highlight of this yearly celebration is the traditional auction of the first barrel of herring. This barrel, which contains about 45 herrings, in pre-corona years sold for anything between €53.000 and €95.500 | $63,660 and $114,709.
This year, 2023, the first barrel of herring was auctioned in Scheveningen for a record amount of €159,500 ($175,000).
The proceeds are donated to a good cause. In 2023 that is the Food Banks organization. One million people in the Netherlands live below the poverty line. The Food Bank (Voedselbank) hands out food surpluses and by doing so also prevents food waste.
Amsterdam Food Tours
A fun way to get to know Amsterdam is by discovering what the locals eat.
Show up hungry for the 3.5-Hour Food Tasting Tour of the lively Jordaan district.
Herring not your thing?
More things to do in Amsterdam
- Public Transport to and from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
- Amsterdam Light Festival: Is it worth it?
- Current Time in Amsterdam
- Van Gogh Museum — Plan Your Visit
- Amsterdam Webcams
- The Night Watch by Rembrandt is not actually called The Night Watch
Notes:
- Herring is healthy due in part to a high concentration of omega-3 fatty acids. It is a good sources of vitamin D and selenium. ↩
- The herring is gutted except for its pancreas. The enzymes in the pancreas cause the herring to mature and develop the great taste it is known and loved for. The gutted herring is salted and placed in a barrel. The salt withdraws moisture, and the herring become salty. The subsequent 24-hour freezing process prevents parasites. ↩
- EU TSG Certification and EU PGI Certification ↩
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